I'll be keeping this one in my toolbox of "out of the box" solutions.

Only 4 geometries to grind on a broken carbide endmill shank and you can drill out hardened steel.

Inspired by Sandvik hardcut and OSG tap extracting drills

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0055860LA

https://www.osgtool.com/exocarb-xh-drl-drills-5172

this is satire, dont replace g1 with g0. You will break so many tools and Mr boss man will make you a Muppet, because you make a fucky-wuky

i was scrolling through Facebook marketplace, and saw this frakenmill and it thought it was pretty funny. but would it work as a mill? And if it did im guessing you probably couldn't take very deep cuts with it.

This is my workplaces full time deburring machine, however I have no idea why it has 2 heads. The second one was obviously and was an afterthought and it is slapped together. it was originally a craftsman drill press. does anybody know the reasons when it has a second head, and if so does your shop have similar drill presses.

This is the lathe I get to run at work. It is the most kick-ass lathe I have ever used, it's a Laguna American turn-master. It is full kited out it has a DRO an RPM gauge a load gage on a spindle. Power feed and threading gearbox and V ways. i swear this isn't sponsored, i love this lathe. If i had infinite money i would buy this. it is a dream to run daily, anyway enough of my fanboying, what lathes do you guys run on the daily? South bend, Hardinge Laguns etc....

I originally wasn't a collet lathe guy, but DAMN the minimal run out is soo good

So we got a super nice Hurco that runs most of our parts. But we have "stupid parts" like facing operations that doesn't really need to be used in the Hurco. So we have this gem, it's a collet lathe that was converted into a CNC in the mid 90s. The guy who usually runs and programs it says it's odd because in software if you put .1000 it does .0500, so it halves the output dimension. (i also might add the guy who runs it is pretty cool and pretty smart) It also is rocking a Siemens Fryer controller, I have no idea what the original lathe was the shop also added safety features, like a hood to stop coolant from spraying. but anyway I thought it was super cool and decided to share.

this lathe looks rather simple, no threading gearbox and a lantern tool post. (yes, i know it's just a game) the lathe and mill are found in the rocket factory

How do people cut sharp inside corners, like the triangles shown? This example is cut in stone but I have seen similar features on wooden building blocks.

Hail! The makerspace I go to needs some parts for their lathe. The gearbox for the leadscrew has given out and we need to source some replacements.

Anyone in know where to look? We are located in Canada.

An old timer at work told me to use Crisco when tapping, he hasnt broken a tap in 20 years. I Have tried it myself and thought it was interesting and wanted to share

Man, some people in industry are just insane.

Hello this is my first time here. We search for new milling distributor around my place (Indonesia). We did found this strange looking milling machine. This look different from another. They use somekind of electrical rotor or idk. I wonder if anyone know this particular design. Would this work great or nah?

Ok so i talked to our resident machinist at work (he does really cool shit like converting a 3axis CNC into 5Axis mill at home) and asked him about the motor. Bluegill and our Resident Machinist had the same Idea. that the motor wasn't wired for 110V and that's why it flicks on and off. however i opened up the motor to tried to wire it to low voltage diagram Which i assume is 115v. However the guy who wired this up originally didn't wire it up anywhere close to the diagram and i have no idea how to wire it up right as the original diagram is super hard to read and i don't understand the terminology. Like t5 or t10, I have wired a 3d Printer before so it isn't my first rodeo wiring but i have no idea how to wire up this motor correctly. that's where smart people like you come in, i need help wiring the motor and the diagram is hard to understand for my very smol hamster brain like mine.

so from what i understand. this my recreation of all the diagrams also im glad i took it apart because the drive pully for the motor i could slide off with my hand and one of the terminals wiggled inside the motor.

as-well as pictures of the original wiring and board

These usually only came in orders of 30, which is not enough to do what I finally achieved in this little video. I had to record that final piece going in place.

I found a real neat video that shows you how to make a collet closer for cheap for a South Bend.

I also recently got into collets because my work place has 1 lathe with a 3 jaw chuck and every other lathe is a Hardinge or Lagun turn master with collets. When I was in my machine trades class, we had one collet lathe, and I always hated it because it was so different. Which is now very ironic because all we have is collets, however I did learn that collets are used because of very small run out. I hated indicating 4 jaw chucks because of it being so finicky to get perfect, but the reason you use a 4 jaw is that it can spin more true than a 3 jaw self centering. Which odds are I would have liked collets more if I knew the advantage of collets over chucks. I recently learned this and found it very fascinating and wanted to share.

"BaCk In My DaY We DiDnT hAvE MiCs. We UsEd ArE BaRe HaNdS AnD HeLd 6 DeCiMaL PlAcEs. We DiDnT hAvE CoOlaNt We WoUlD Spit and Blow on IT."

i poke fun but Listen to the old timers, tho, they know what they're talking about.

For real, the seminar was Super cool, I didn't know the applications of Swiss and its miniature tooling. It can hold some crazy tolerances and do some crazy operations and parts. I Highly suggest Looking into Swiss

Ok bois so my tractor lathe which i have been working on has el problemo. so i hooked it up with a new Belt because the old one was roached. and connected her up to 110V (yes i know 220 is optimal etc.) i did it just to see if the motor is brokey. it runs but its like its turning on and off, it spins up then stops then spins up. kinda like a dude at a drag race (revvvvvvvv pause revvvvvv). its rather odd and i think the motor is bad because on the motor it says PH-1 which is single phase and 115-220. so theoretically it should work just fine. So if the motor is in fact broken what are my options? ive read forms of people taking south bend 9" lathes and hooking up VFD's. which im not against using a VFD, but i would like to keep it as close to original if i can Thanks.

Did the boss say you needed steel toed boots for work. But you're on a budget? Well, do we have the product for you!! To save on cost, it's made of aluminum to be lighter weight or some shit, I dunno. Just buy it ---- damn, I'm a great businessman

I know It's made out of chinesium, but for $20 it will work for light work holding parts. Also, I'm not dead I'm just really busy with other stuff including a promotion at work, this week ill be OD grinding. However, there will be no posts because odds are everything ill be grinding will be covered under the trade secret category. Cheers all, stop reading this and go make some chips!!!