Remember that you are also interviewing them. They won't expect you to know all the answers, but will want someone that they can work with. If you can, answer questions with the STAR method (situation, task, approach, result), but don't waffle. You can use one piece of experience in a variety of ways: teamwork, research, urgent deadline etc.
It's ok to say that you are nervous, they should try to put you at ease.
You may be asked 'trick questions', these are not usually to to you up but to see how you work an unknown problem. There is no right answer. Not knowing stuff is ok. Not being able to think up a plan is less so.
Remember whatever the outcome, this is really useful experience. See if you can get a site tour, ask about the tech used... You can then add this to your knowledge for later. In my experience, industry is frequently several years ahead of academia so you get a good chance to understand the real world.
I'd go with a good quality traditional key lock fitted properly in a good door and frame. Security isn't a single point task, it depends on many things so think like a bad person and do what you can to make your property a harder target than your neighbours.
A good lock on a bad door doesn't work, neither does a bad lock on a good door. Everything needs to work together. If you're likely to lose your keys or many people need access a smart lock may be an idea, but good probably isn't cheap. If it's just you and you can keep your keys safe, then I think tried, tested and simple kit is good.
Ultimately though, as ever, it's your risk assessment based on your needs.
If you watch lock picking lawyer, you may as well just leave it open. Most smart locks seem to prioritise convenience over security. -possibly check that your insurance is happy with a smart lock.
There's a good chance that it's the capacitors in the PSU that have failed. It's always the caps! Should be a very doable repair.
Ermmm.... If you use several pins to get the current rating, what happens if one of the pins fails or gets corroded? Won't you risk generating heat? Think I'd prefer nice big connectors for the power and to keep the data lines safely segregated. Depends on your needs and design I suppose.
It's like everything, practice slowly, get good form wired in, then when you write fast for exams your writing will be worse than normal, but still legible.
Practice writing slowly and with good form. Write regularly, give yourself practice pieces. At uni you will be writing FAST, so it'll get worse if you don't keep disciplined.
Alternatively, learn to touch type, and type any work you need to hand in. - if your handwriting is so bad, you may want to make your notes legible to yourself for revision.
Brilliant, many thanks. With all the old phones in my cupboards I'd hoped this was the answer, but it's good to get a second opinion.
This is very interesting. Have you considered studying social engineering? - I've found SE techniques quite understandable to help form a process to deal with people in a 'useful' way. Many years ago I was sent on a positive influencing course via work and discovered that most NTs can be quite easily manipulated with a few simple tricks. In the end I stopped using them as it felt unfair.
Butt your enclosure right up against the lock body, then you reduce shearing forces trying to pull it off the door. Extend the pull bar through your enclosure so you still have a manual override.
While I'm not adverse to home automation, is this something you need in your life, or just want? I like my perimeter security too be simple and tight, extra complications make the security audit much harder.
Will your insurance stand up to home made remote control unlocking?
To answer your question, place the servo in a suitably large enclosure and practically any adhesive should work, e.g. 3mM command strips or even velcro or double sided sticky. When confident that this is what you want, use a screw.
Not sure I understand the problem fully, but you want a circuit to operate when you push the horn button, without affecting the horn operation.
Chances are the relay coil is drawing to much power.
Have you thought about adding a transistor to your circuit? It would draw very little current from the horn circuit but should allow you to drive something else. - such as your relay. It would of course require you to do some electronics.