3DPrinting
3DPrinting is a place where makers of all skill levels and walks of life can learn about and discuss 3D printing and development of 3D printed parts and devices.
The r/functionalprint community is now located at: !functionalprint@kbin.social or !functionalprint@fedia.io
There are CAD communities available at: !cad@lemmy.world or !freecad@lemmy.ml
Rules
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No bigotry - including racism, sexism, ableism, homophobia, transphobia, or xenophobia. Code of Conduct.
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Be respectful, especially when disagreeing. Everyone should feel welcome here.
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No porn (NSFW prints are acceptable but must be marked NSFW)
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No Ads / Spamming / Guerrilla Marketing
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Do not create links to reddit
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If you see an issue please flag it
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No guns
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No injury gore posts
If you need an easy way to host pictures, https://catbox.moe/ may be an option. Be ethical about what you post and donate if you are able or use this a lot. It is just an individual hosting content, not a company. The image embedding syntax for Lemmy is ![](URL)
Moderation policy: Light, mostly invisible
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I'm not sure. I'm starting from zero so either? I'm pretty technically inclined but I'm hoping it's easy enough to keep my teenaged daughter interested, if that makes a difference.
It looks like you're replying to the thread vs individual comments. I would have seen your reply faster the other way around :(
FDM prints will be stronger and don’t require any chemical post-processing. They will require mechanical post processing (filling, sanding) if you want smooth features, but depending on what you intend to use the part for this might not be necessary. Some filaments, like ABS and ASA require some caution while printing (they release VOCs) and some filaments can absorb water while they’re out in the open, causing a decrease in print quality. If you stick to PLA and/or go through spools reasonably quickly it won’t be an issue. I print mainly PETG and while I don’t dry my spools and store them out in the open I don’t really have any issues with older spools.
SLA prints can have much smaller features, but require post processing (rinse and cure). SLA printers also tend to have smaller build volumes. There’s also the whole having to deal with unused resin thing and the fact that you probably should collect waste products and dispose of them properly. But if you’re making minis or something like that you’re much better off with a SLA printer.
On the FDM printer, a cheap stocker printer with a big following (eg Ender) is usually a fine option. There will be a lot of support in terms of community and parts. I’ve been running a rebranded Wanhao I3 clone, which is essentially an earlier ender, for 5+ years without much modifications. Most cheap FDM printers are going to require some amount of fiddling to keep them going. You're also likely to eventually modify them to alleviate some of the design decisions that enabled their lower price points in the first place. That doesn't mean you shouldn't buy a cheap FDM printer if you're on a tight budget, just know what you're getting into.
Thank you for the crash course. This is extremely helpful. I'm not sure if you saw the other post about not seeing comments but you nudged me into fixing it. I only had undetermined selected for the language and not English, but anyway thanks for pointing me in the right direction on the printers.
No worries, good luck!