So I have an L390 Yoga with USB-C charging. Original adapter works at full speed. I got a 45W power bank, works at full speed.

But that was just a coincidence.

I already tried 5 other adapters and all can only charge it at 10W with 5V. 3 were 22.5W, so maybe, but now I got a 45W GaN adapter, with the same 20V 2.25A as the power bank, yet again just 10W. It even has PPS.
I also tried a 66W adapter I have, with 20V 3.25A mode, 10W again.

The only 3rd party thing that works is Choetech B653 power bank.

I have also tried 2 different cables, one of which is rated at 120W, but both only work with the power bank.

So what am I missing? Or is it just some Lenovo BS to make you use official adapter?

Like this it's faster to charge the power bank, and then the laptop from it.

Edit: Switches to 20V when I connect something to USB-A on the adapter, but keeps turning off and on repeatedly (the adapter).

[feel free to send me somewhere else or tell me that it doesn't work like that]

As some fingerprinting test sites show, I put myself into a distinct minority by simple useragent info alone. But may I somehow replicate not the behavior, but the appearance of an existing huge web crawler?

My inspiration is in how crypto-crime liked and wanted more transactions on the net, because the bigger the volume and amount, the less every single transaction stand out.

Web crawlers are a frequent source of noise, so unless it overwhelms the system and gets banned (the downside of such masking is obvious), said masking may probably get you filtered off as unsignificant activity not to track at all as it's pointless.

Does it make any sense to pretend you are a robot? And if that's so, how to do just that correctly? I'm proficient at failing captchas but I am the opposite on subjects about web tech and web surveiliance.

I have a graphics card with a display port, HDMI and vdi-d. HDMI is already in use, and I want to add a second screen which has VGA cable. As far as I know VGA to vdi-d won't work, will VGA to display port will work?

So I was trying to boot proxmox to start a home lab on my old laptop now it decides to not even get into the bios and boot menu it just gets stuck in "entering boot menu" and "stuck entering setup menu" i have no idea what to do it's a old toshiba satellite m100-221

My PC screen randomly went black while I was playing a game, and the VGA light turned on. When I rebooted, the cpu light turns on for a second, then turns off and the DRAM light turns on for a second, them the VGA light turns on permanently, screen completely black and unable to do anything. I have already tried clearing the CMOS, reseating and testing RAM, and the cable to my monitor. Any other ideas?

Edit: Just got it back from Office Depot. It worked in store according to the tech but when I brought it back home it did not work again. Possibly my Displayport cable? The VGA light is still on, so maybe it’s my outlet? Any ideas would be nice.

Edit 2: Thunderstorm must have messed with my cable running between my PC and Monitor. After rerunning it at Office Depot, a new cable and a deep clean fixed my PC. Thanks for everyone’s help.

Hi there, I have had this phone for about 3 months now. It is great, but a few days ago the screen started acting up, flashing green until I shake the device or something like that. There is also a line along the right half of the screen which will flash occasionally and will be different colors.

I looked it up and people said it is a static electricity problem, but doing what they said didn't really fix anything.

I feel like it is possible that the ribbon cable might be loose, but don't want to take the phone apart and discover that the whole screen needs to be replaced without having one on hand.

Anyone familiar with this issue and how to fix it?

I am looking into changing my web hosting provider, as I did not research pricing sufficiently before signing up for the one I am currently using, and I have developed a preference to avoid American companies since.

My domain is registered with a separate company, and my website is completely static and home made, so I think the move should be somewhat painless. I expect that it's as easy as signing up for another service provider, and redirecting the domain to whatever information they provide. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

What I'm a little concerned about is my email at name@example.com. I'm assuming setting up a new address under the same name would be trivial under most hosting providers, but is there a good way of keeping my current emails available on the server? Alternatively, does anyone know of good options for making local backups of my inbox?

Last, if anyone has recommendations for somewhat affordable, green & European hosting providers, it would be much appreciated. I guess Hetzner is an option, but I wouldn't mind supporting a slightly smaller company if I can.

Thanks!

This is just a cheap earphone with a mic (wired, not wireless), but it works ok without any noise on my phone, while using it on PC has this noise. It sounds like an electrical interference? Any ideas how to solve this, as OS mic options don't seem to make a difference?

https://pomf2.lain.la/f/gci901s.m4a

• Mic: Philips Earbud 1000 series TAUE101
• OS: Windows 11

Update (about a week later): Sorry for taking my time. Life's quite busy right now. I've taken the advice I got here (thank you everyone for contributing), tried a few additional things and it looks like I can confirm this to be an issue with the mainboard or BIOS-chip.
If its the mainboard, I'm SOL, since its probably not worth replacing. I'm still 'hoping' its a corrupted BIOS, that can be reflashed. If anyone has any suggestions what I can try to make that work, you're still welcome to post here.

Original post: My wife's Ideapad Laptop won't boot anymore. The device is an Ideapad Flex 5 best described by it's model code 14ALC05.

I've tried to fix it for a few days already, but to no avail.

Error description:

It will power on, but screen stays black. Not even Bios-splashscreen will show.

Initially the LED indicators on the ESC-key (Fn-Lock) and CapsLock will light up. The Fn-Lock will go dark again, while Caps-Lock LED stays on. I can turn off the Caps-Lock LED by pressing Fn+SPACE, after which it won't turn on again.

The device will stay powered on, even for hours, no change and the LED on the power button will stay lit unless the battery runs low, in which case it starts flashing. (That's normal behavior)

Things I've tried (not neccessarily in that order):

• Disconnecting any peripherals
• Connecting external HDMI display
• pressing the Novo-Key
• holding the Novo-key
• Power drain by holding power button for more than a minute
• disconnecting the internal battery + power drain
• disconnecting the SSD

I have suspected a corrupted BIOS and tried flashing an updated BIOS by following this guide: https://wucke13.de/posts/lenovo-bios-fun/

However, the error description doesn't seem to match exactly with my problem, so I'm not sure if I even have the right diagnosis. I've found other pages that suggest and describe re-flashing the BIOS with an SPI-programmer. But I don't own something like that and have no prior experience, so I only want to try that as a last resort.

If anyone has got any additional ideas, what I could try or even can help me confirm that I'm on the right track, pls let me know!

Bit frustrating. Not every app, but a few I'd really like don't work because of this issue. Any help would be appreciated.

Found this old DVD driver in the garage that looks like it was from a laptop. I’d like to use it, but I don’t know what port is that.

I thought it was SATA, but it’s a little bit more taller and narrow, maybe an old revision? Or is it HP proprietary?

Any help is appreciated!

My elderly aspire one D150 is, alas, no longer working (screen dead, not posting either by the sound of it). I've swapped out the ram, checked the battery and charger.

It powers on, no screen activity. The fan is definitely firing up, but it's clearly stopping after 2 seconds, the device does remain on. Key presses yield no additional response.

I did try using an external monitor via the dvi port, but no dice (checking if the monitor is dead).

Any thoughts on fixes, or do I have a new paperweight?

I'm able to use my VPN to distribute files via Soulseek/Nicotine+. Can I do this with its IP and port forwarding so people can connect to a website hosted on my machine from the internet?

I'm imagining they'd be able to connect with the basic IP:port address, but I'm really not even sure if it's possible.

I'm looking into using NGINX for this. If something else is more appropriate, I'd love to know.

When I boot up my comp (windows 10, Home Edition), I'm getting pop-ups for my Brother printer. Ive had the printer for 2 or 3 years, and have used their "Brother iPrint&Scan" to run it since day one, but the pop-ups have only been happening for a few weeks.

They always have this text:

...and I always click "Don't show this again", but then I boot my computer up and it's back.

Any way to kill it for good, without also killing the printer?

UPDATE: Thanks for the advice, I'll be using it in the future. But around the time I made this post said buddy ran off to get tech support in person without telling me.

Currently trying to help a buddy out over Discord.

He's on a milliary base and just got his PC shipped from home. But someone had taken his PSU while he was away, So he's bought a new one but can't get his PC to boot. Fans don't spin up or anything.

Been trying to figure out what motherboard he has so we can find a manual. but all we know so far is it's an ROG with an AMD socket.

Any help would be great thanks.

Next semester is starting up soon, and one of the most useful things I've taken to doing is recording lectures. I doubt I'll ever be able to get the quality anywhere that would be considered 'good', but I have no idea what I'm doing outside of some trial and error, so I imagine I can probably get it quite a bit better with some optimizations.

Set up... recording with a laptop, and a Ugreen 15728 to capture both video and audio. Everything's done on OBS Studio. I sit at the front of the class with the webcam mounted to a little tripod and aimed at the projector screen with the end goal of basically having narrated powerpoint presentations.

The field of view of the webcam is way higher than I need it to be, so I zoom it in by fitting just the presentation to frame in OBS... which works, but probably 75% of its resolution potential is lost to just cropping it out. I don't think anything can be done about that, since the webcam doesn't have a physical zoom and I can't position it anywhere closer to the screen than I have previously. ...and the resolution as-is comes out... okay. They're powerpoints, and with the exception of the odd bit of unusually fine font, the final product is readable, in a 1995 jpeg kinda way.

I think the real room for improvement is managing the lighting settings - the issue is that the camera is still recording the bits that aren't actually being saved, so if the room lights are on and the ppt has a dark background, it gets 'corrected' to where the light font on the page also get kinda blacked out, I think because it's compensating for the bright surfaces beyond the edges of the presentation. Room lights off with a light background ppt, it all gets white-washed. Tweaking the gamma and... backlight? whitelight? in the device-specific settings I can usually get it to where the text is readable, but again, it kinda looks like shit.

Audio... I used to have some of those interview mics for the prof to wear, which were great quality for the... like two or three? times they actually decided to wear it. They were for some reason opposed to doing that, so they'd just set it on the podium and let it record from there... and then walk all over the front of the classroom, making audio quality all over the place. Tried using the mic on my gaming headset, with the entire headset perched next to the webcam, but it captured me breathing and typing more clearly than the prof; admitted defeat on audio quality and have since used the ones built into the webcam, and they do okay, but with that same kind of barely passable quality as the video.

I've seen some optimization guides, but pretty much all of them are geared toward streaming or web conferences, not lecture halls, and their tips only yielded slight improvements.

I don't really understand what any of the settings actually do, so I just fuck with the sliders or check the toggles and if it makes it better I keep it, if it doesn't I put it back... but I'm probably doing something in a stupid order or overlooking a whole category of settings. Literally just figuring this all out as I go - no prior experience with this or similar software.

...I know my recording conditions and equipment are all far from ideal, but I do share these recordings with my classmates, so if any of know any optimizations I can make with the tools on hand, please let me know!

Thanks all!

So last summer, our oven/mw (Whirlpool JQ280) broke (i'm thinking of overheating since it was very hot, but it may as well be electrical default). I tracked down the problem to the motherboard, which has indeed some weldings that burned. I bought a new one and the oven is working again.

I now have this defective motherboard, separated in two parts. The burned weldings are on the back part, and the front part still has a four-number display, a button and what i assume to be the main chip. I figured that i maybe could get only the front part and make some kind of clock with it.

The easy version would be to feed it 5V current, and if it's not broken it should work as if it was still in the oven, providing a time display. Is there anything dangerous or tricky about that ? I already built/modified a few electrical circuits (spotlights, guitars) but it was always with simple components used for their intended purpose, and i have close to 0 knowledge of electronics. I specifically have no idea if there might be danger of electrical shocks and if it's important to ground it (There are two circuits that are labeled GND on the connection between the two parts, and a yellow/green cable that was connected to the metallic structure of the oven going from the bottom of the back part).

The more complicated version would be to also reprogram the chip, out of curiosity. From Internet, i deduce that it takes some specific hardware to "flash/burn" the chip : either some box in which you put the chip, either some clip that you put around the chip. The problem here is that the chip of this motherboard seems to be 64pins : i think un-welding/re-welding it would be far beyond my welding skills. But on the other hand, it doesn't seem to exist clips adaptators for more than 16 pins. Can you confirm that reprogramming this chip would involve precision welding ?

Anyway, thanks in advance for your feedback, have a great day !

So I grabbed this up at the thrift store today, when I got it back home I have it a quick clean and tried powering on, but it didn't seem to respond.

Turns out it is turning on, but it is turning off nearly as quickly. I tested the volts on the power supply briefly and it shows up as ten on my multimeter (States it is 9.6 V).

Any help would be appreciated. I do have a video showing what is going wrong if needed.

cross-posted from: https://sopuli.xyz/post/31229826

What are your thoughts on using the Eee PC 1005PX for basic tasks today? It's from around 2010 and it's still working. Though all the Raspberry Pis have better specs... What OS would you install?

Specs:
Intel Atom® N450 1.66 GHz Processor cores: 1 25.6 cm (10.1") 1024 x 600 pixels 5:3 1 GB DDR2-SDRAM 250 GB Ethernet LAN Lithium-Ion (Li-Ion) 8.5 h

cross-posted from: https://lemmy.world/post/33569521

Does anyone know why the "render" of the data would be wrong? I changed it from the US format to the ISO 8601.

Edit: Adding some spaces in the equation helped.

I recently purchased a new NAS / Server and while I'm waiting for it to arrive I'm planning out my storage and RAID configurations.

I'ce mostly decided on using 5 20TB or 24TB drives in RAID z2 as my primary storage pool. I'll just use a 500GB nvme as a read cache. But I still have a gen 4 by 4 nvme slot available, and I'm considering buying a stupidly large nvme drive to put in it.

Problem is, I want some fault tolerance, so I'm wondering if I can just make a virtual drive in my primary pool and use a RAID mirror between the nvme and the virtual drive to make my secondary pool.

Would this work? Or would the performance overhead and instibility make this a fool's errand?

(Stock reference image because im terrible at taking pictures)

I got this dell laptop for 10 dollars at a thrift store and it powers on but i beeps 5 times at me before reaping the beeps. I oped up the laptop to give it a light clean but to notice this model has the storage and ram embedded into he board. I took a gamble with this laptop, im thinking the cmos batters need replacing but im unsure. What would you advise? This is a dell inspiration 11 3000 series from 2010.

If you need more info leave a comment.

Coworker is building one of the fancier surround sound setups, and mentioned we wished he could find the THX Deepnote in full surround sound. Seemed like a simple enough request, so I did some searching myself, and am only seeing YouTube videos like this one, or .mp3 files, both of which (afaik) only support two audio channels.

Even THX's own website just links to more YouTube videos.

I don't actually know jack about surround sound or audio formats - taking his word and the web articles I've stumbled across all at face value... am I just being stupid about this? Is there somewhere to download the full-quality thing?