this post was submitted on 07 Aug 2023
11 points (100.0% liked)

3DPrinting

15577 readers
193 users here now

3DPrinting is a place where makers of all skill levels and walks of life can learn about and discuss 3D printing and development of 3D printed parts and devices.

The r/functionalprint community is now located at: !functionalprint@kbin.social or !functionalprint@fedia.io

There are CAD communities available at: !cad@lemmy.world or !freecad@lemmy.ml

Rules

If you need an easy way to host pictures, https://catbox.moe/ may be an option. Be ethical about what you post and donate if you are able or use this a lot. It is just an individual hosting content, not a company. The image embedding syntax for Lemmy is ![](URL)

Moderation policy: Light, mostly invisible

founded 1 year ago
MODERATORS
 

Hi all

A higher nozzle diameter has the benefit of being able to print faster due to to bigger layer width. There is a tradeoff, you'll have to lower print speed and/or raise temperature to maintain proper layer adhesion. That means that there is an optimal nozzle size for a given print speed/temperature combination. You also don't want temperature too high because it will burn/degrade your filament.

In my experience layer adhesion is quite poor with a nozzle of 0.8mm and it also prevents you from printing finer details (gear teeth for example). The tradeoff versus a 0.4mm nozzle doesn't seem worth it especially if you print overnight.

What are your experiences?

you are viewing a single comment's thread
view the rest of the comments
[–] n3cr0@lemmy.world 2 points 1 year ago (1 children)

I change nozzles depending on the project.

0.4 and 0.5 are nice for smaller parts with fine details. But for mineatures / small figures, I tend to 0.3 or even 0.2 nozzles. 0.1 only for exceptional small and detailled works, since these nozzles constantly tend to clogging. And then there are taller parts which have to be strong, like shelf brackets or vases. That's where my 0.8 and even 1.0 mm nozzles do shine.

Last, but not least: You don't need a high-flow hotend for wider nozzles. Any hotend will do (tested with an old Ender2), as long as you adjust speed and temperature accordingly. Some trial and error is the key.

[–] n3cr0@lemmy.world 1 points 1 year ago

Side note: You don't need to level the bed after each nozzle change. Keeping this in mind saves quite some time and effort.