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Edit: Thanks all for the troubleshooting advice but this occurred on a channel that is known to me that regularly posts 4k HDR content. At the time I tried to play it, the video had 14k views and had been up for two days. It's probably just a transient thing. I mainly thought this was funny because I'd never seen such an anemic selection of resolutions. Perhaps you guys can try to enjoy the post in that spirit.
Edit #2: I know I said we weren't troubleshooting but if anyone wants to try it out, the video is here. I tried on my phone this morning and there are only the two crappy resolutions.
Edit #3: Credit to skullgiver@popplesburger.hilciferous.nl here. I think they came the closest to explaining the problem. After I tried this on my phone, I tried it on the laptop and all resolutions with and without HDR were available. This may indicate that something like H.264 High Profile was used for encoding which (depending on the level) may not be supported on mobile device and it would seem, set top boxes like my Roku Ultra.
Edit #4: Some others had commented about the same problem in the video comments on YT so I told the content creator what I knew and (politely) asked how the video was compressed. Will report back if I get a response.
Edit #5: Clarified a point in Edit #3. Some mobile devices may support some levels of High Profile, or at least that's my understanding.
Final Edit: Creator did not respond to me directly but they indicated that they requested help from YouTube in the matter. Haven't checked the Roku yet but all resolutions are now available from my phone as of 2024-04-13T11:12:00.000 UTC.
Check my last edit in main post.