Hi everyone [mini GB]

https://www.jellykey.com/artisan-keycaps/lunar-delicacies

This is a mini group buy open for only 48 hours. Shipping starts after 30 business days. We’ll try to ship earlier to customers in Asia so they can get their orders before the Mid-Autumn Festival.

Each keycap includes one 1u mooncake tray (holds one “mooncake”) like in the preview photos. We also have 2u, 3u, 4u, and 6u sizes. All sizes are $15 each. The keycap trays ship for free when purchased together with keycaps.

got his used low-profile keyboard with cherry mx red switches. apart from one broken key, everything works but - the thing reeks of ciggs. I've washed the keycaps and the case, but as you can see, the switches are caked with the gunk. any advice on what to do, clean (how?) or abandon, as replacing the keys is out of the question. thanks!

• just so you can type it again?

So I finally got these switches intalled in my Rainy75 that I posted about the other day (YushaKobo), and I haven't seena lot posted online about these yet, so I thought I'd add my 10p.

I chose them because I'm on team tactile, not linear, so I needed some tac's to go in the Rainy which only ships with linears. I tried all of the tactiles in the giant switch testers at YushaKobo and this was the one I liked the feel of the best. I'd never heard of them before, but feels best is what feels best, so it wasn't a hard decision.

I think it was the lightest of the tactiles in their testers, but I wouldn't call it light. More of a medium weight IMHO. I'm coming from 65g Zealios R1 and the actuation force is very similar to that. The bottom-out force is a bit lighter, as the Zealios have a cushiony spring that ramps up the resistance, whereas these kinda just collapse after the bump, in a really satisfying way.

The bump I would describe as a medium. Defo more than the "scratchy red" of the old MX Brown. Pretty similar again to the Zealios, but with less pre-travel. It actually kinda reminds me of the HHKB/Topre a little. The bump is right at the top, then smooth, then it collapses to bottom-out. I guess the bump is longer than with topre tho.

The sound, OMFG the sound! It's a LOT deeper than the stock HMX Violets on the Rainy. It sounds soooo much better. I might have a hard time persuading myself to rip out the case foam and add a tape mod to the pcb chasing even deeper sounds, because this already sounds amazing. This was one of the things that put me off getting a full alu board for a long time, so many recordings, and that one I tried at a meetup once upon a time, where they just go tink tink tink and people call that thocky for some reason? With the stock violets this was not thocky at all. Now it is, and I like it!

There's NO wobble. My old Zealio R1's are extremely wobbly so I wanted something that fixed that, but probably everything these days is fine. The stock violet switches also have basically no wobble, but the BigLucky's do indeed have slightly less.

So there it is. Basically a rave review, but I don't really have a lot of modern switches to compare to.

TLDR:

I think the build in clock in my keyboard runs too fast. Can I fix it?

Long:

My first hand-me-down mechanical keyboard died on me few weeks before I started my programming course. Therefore I needed a new one. I am the kind of gal which bought a mechanical keyboard because it makes clicky sounds and it looks cute and obviously my code will be better if I code with a cutesy board (I will not take any criticism here, this is a fact). I am not yet at the level at which I would hand pick each key cap without letters therefore I opted for a pre build. I was a little limited in my choice cause I liked a German keyboard layout.

I am very happy with my RK S98. I set my clock twice already and I it runs constantly faster and will diver overtime from the real time. I didn’t find anyone having the same issue online. Is there a way to fix it? Am I the only one?

I am doing what I can to find this information out myself, whether through experimenting or looking online, but one thing I am struggling to figure out is if my keyboard has hot swappable switches or not. I tried giving the switches a tug with a flat head screwdriver, but I am scared to break it and I don't have a switch puller. They seemed to be coming up on one side, but when I would start working on the other side it would pop back down on the initial side. Also, the switches have a brown "actuation point" with a white "base" and say Outemu on them.

I understand this is a cheap GameStop keyboard, but I got it in pretty nice condition from a thrift store for about $10US. I just needed something to make uni work more comfortable.

Thank you so much for any help! I can send photos if that helps.

It's amazing being able to see and try out so many crazy and interesting keyboards in one place. Stuff that even bigger places like Bic Camera don't have, and that you could never imagine e seeing in a shop back in the UK. I picked up a Rainy75 and a set of WS BigLucky Tactiles to go with it. I'm looking forward to getting home to try it all out for real and get familiar with the setup. I'm also kinda weirded out to not hate the linear switches that the Rainy comes with. Shop guy Olodeh (hope I got your name right bro!) was super helpful, and overall a really positive experience. My favourite thing was the switch testers that show you on screen what each switch is, and some details about it. Some minor disappointments: no Boba U4T in stock today - i was looking forward to trying those; and no Wooting keebs for my gamer son to try out, although they did have another HE board that was above our price range, so at least we got a feel for that one.

I have been hearing about this keyboard recently. And man do I look stupid how I underestimated the low-profile mech keebs.

My first experience with low-profile universe was Keychron K3 back in 2020 or smth. And honestly, I was quite underwhelmed by that thing. It was not a bad keyboard. But the sound and the feel was no where near as good.

The sound is creamy and the feel is on the light side, which I didn't expect I prefer. But the number is the cruel evidence. With my Crush 80 Pro, I was getting 85 at-best. And with Flow Lite, I'm getting over 100 consistently what the hell?! i'm so confused.

This is only one day in and I'm already feeling like this is the true end game keyboard for me.

Btw i got the pink one. And it looks awesome!!

Hi fediverse.

I am searching for an ISO TKL barebones kit, and so far have come up short. I have found the following: nuphy gem80 (which is out of production and they confirm that a new batch is not in plans). Evo80, which seems to be a bit pricier and out of stock. Luminkey80, seems to not support nkey rollover, so I might be better off using my Model M keyboard.

Am I correct that no keyboard with modern comforts like proper layer dampening, hotswap, gasket mount exist in ISO and in TKL?

EDIT: I already own keychron and ducky, but I would like to have a keyboard where it ticks all the boxes. Like the ones I made as examples in the beginning (gem80, evo80, luminkey80)

Thank you in advance.

EDIT 2: I chose a Neo80 from monacokeys. Thank you for the dialogue, guys!

It's a split keyboard in 4 parts and 101 keys, though i could move the number pad and control pad to outside of the thumb keys if making a 4-piece keyboard is too hard or complicated.

Left thumb gets space, control, and super. Right gets space, hyper (just a 3rd layer), and alt. The keys next to T and N are repeat keys. Above Fn is escape and sleep. Above power is compose.

The control pad has cut, copy, paste, open, select all, save, undo, and redo.

I think that's every key i'll need, especially with a compose key and so much extra space available on the hyper layer.

Is there anything i've forgotten to consider? Anything i should know about split keyboards, or custom shapes in general?

More specific question, are 0.5u switches and caps available anywhere for all my small keys? I could replace most of them with full size keys fairly easily, but the 101st key on the number pad would make the layout asymmetrical.

Aside from the increased stem wobble compared to my original Womier Full POM switches, the Gateron Milky Yellow Pro V2's that I just purchased from amazon have been incredible. They're comfortable to type on for long periods, they made my RGB look even better, and they made my keyboard sound significantly deeper and "creamier".

If you're into deep creamy sounds and a really soft typing experience, I cannot recommend these enough.

cross-posted from: https://feddit.org/post/17491388

I have a Keychron V1 Knob, does this work for it?

J42Kbm with TTC Venus and KAT Space Dust Asymplex Artisan HuB Spacebars

I have an old Steelseries 6Gv2 keyboard. It's a great keyboard but I'm tired of not having a left super-key, so I want to find a replacement.

I got a Cherry MX tester box with lots of different switches to try some switches out. The 6Gv2 keyboard has Cherry MX Black switches and I'm perfectly happy with the switch and don't really feel any need to change it, but I just wanted to try.

However, when I compare the switch on my 6Gv2 keyboard with the Cherry MX Black in the tester box, the tester box switch sounds different and quite a bit louder.

There's much more "friction" sounds when the key is being pressed down or coming up (i.e. not related to the sound of the key actually hitting the bottom or top of its travel). I also feel like I can hear the spring more and there's sort of more of a "reverb" to the new switch, as if it vibrates when I release it and it comes up.

In comparison, the 6Gv2's switch sounds quieter and more muffled, a much more pleasant sound than the high frequency tacking from the new switch.

Anyone has any idea what the difference might come from? Is it switch lubing? Does soldering switches change their sound (I believe the 6Gv2 is soldered)? Is it the case or is there perhaps a chance that Steelseries did something special to the switch, to make it quieter? Or perhaps is it just age? Any advice appreciated!

Hi everyone! I'd like to share the successor of my old keyboards.

My mechanical keyboard journey began by getting a CMStrom Quickfire TK for one of my birthdays. It has brown switches, which I liked very much. However I didn't really try any other switches, I simply decided by online sources, that how a brown switch should feel, and I thought I need that force feedback when pressing a key. It turned out great, I loved it. I'm not even sure how many years I used it for, but its very possible that its close to 10 years. I had absolutely no issues with it, but since the hungarian key layout it an ISO layout I had some issues with the ANSI layout.

After a while I decided its time for an upgrade, and one of my friends suggested Keychron. I decided on the Keychron K2, which was a really good upgrade in my experience. I immediately knew that the 75% layout was for me. Again brown keys, now ISO layout with a pleasant surprise that Keychron manufactured HU keycaps. This keyboard wasn't used for that many years, only like 2-3. At one point the 'q' key broke, and started chattering, I guess that because it was a key I used a lot, and the K2 not being a very high end keyboard. Still was strange, because my CMStorm lasted 10 years, and still works perfectly. The K2 has hot swappable switches, I solved this by changing it to something that I rarely use.

While looking for replacement switches, I encountered a keyboard on the Keychron site, that caught my attention multiple times in the past, but I didn't want to buy a new keyboard till the old one was working. However the old one had this issue I mentioned, so I could technically consider it "broken", and also my birthday was coming, so I decided to order a Q1 Max.

Of course I ordered it with brown keys again, since I wasn't sure how I could try new ones for free. I'm not a keyboard tinkerer, I ordered the Q1 Max pre-built. When it arrived I immediately felt that it was a huge upgrade compared to the K2. The keys feel nice, the keycaps are awesome. Not that the keycaps mattered, because I replaced them with a custom printed one from yuzukeycaps. The checkerboard patter is something I found on team liquid forums related to Star Craft topics many years ago, and I liked how unique and cool they looked. If you search for "tl forum checkerboard keyboard" you can find images of them:

However after a few days of using it I realized something was wrong, and noticed that many keys type double. This made me very concerned, and after checking online about this issue I found a ton of reddit threads about this exact same issue, and that Keychron keyboards became unreliable over time. At this point I deeply regret ordering a Keychron, and trusting on the brand after my K2 experience. Every time I tried searching for solution I found even more user experiences with faulty keyboards that broke in the first weeks of using them.

I contacted support. Of course the days that I can get a refund has passed. They said to upgrade the firmware of my keyboard, which I did from 1.0 to 1.1, which introduced debounce timers. Fortunately 30ms debounce seems to have fixed this issue, but I'm still deeply concerned that something will break in the near future, especially after reading feedback of Keychron keyboards on reddit. When I decided on this high-end keyboard I was planning that I will use this till it truly breaks, and will last way more times than my old CMStorm. The Q1 Max still has to earn my trust, and I still need to give it a soul by using it for years. Has a lot to prove till I respect it like my CMStorm.

If you got this far, I'm curious about your experience about Keychron keyboards, especially if you have a Q1 Max. Or anything related to the post. I feel like this debounce is there to hide some manufacturing issues, despite reading something about this that its not a quality issue, but a switch characteristics.

Have a nice day!

cross-posted from: https://feddit.nl/post/40265251

Alt text: POV you are sitting on a sofa, left half of a split ergomech keyboard resting against the left leg under an angle (tented) while a black cat provides wrist support

Join our groupbuy: https://www.jellykey.com/artisan-keycaps/born-of-forest-seasons-of-sylvan-splendor

Hi everyone,

Bring focused nature back to desk time. Layered resin trees, moss texture and flowing water form a compact forest inside each keycap.

• Keycap sizes: 1u / 2.25u (enter) / 2.25u (left-shift) / 6.25u (spacebar)
• 4 designs
• Profiles : SA & Droplet
• Payment: PP / CC
• Price at start: $55

Offered in 1u, Enter / Left Shift (2.25u) and Spacebar (6.25u) for a coherent scene line. Group buy ends August 17, 2025. Join now to secure matched color and early allocation.

I finally have my Chouchou keyboard (partly) put together, and now i'm trying to set up the firmware for the Taipo layout. This is my first mechanical keyboard so I'm pretty new to QMK.

I followed this page up to the part where i use qmk compile, when it complains that keymap.c for Taipo says to include "dlip.h", which is missing. I don't know what that file is supposed to be, and i don't see anything like that here where i got the keymap file.

I can rename dlip/config.h to dlip.h and put it in ~/qmk_firmware/quantum, but then the console complains that every key is "undeclared here (not in a function)".

So what's this dlip.h file that i can't find? What are the other files at that second link for? How am i supposed to tell this keyboard how the keys are chorded?

Thanks in advance.

For some reason or another, a whole third of all mechanical keyboards in the biggest local computer retailer's online store, are Ducky. Probably because they have ISO and ANSI layouts, a lot of colors, different sizes, and different switches. And they're ordered from abroad when bought, not stocked locally. So loads of choice and no cost showing them as available.

So since my only real options here if I want a full keyboard or TKL with blue switches are a couple of different Ducky models (one 3, Shine 7) in various colors, I'm wondering if anyone has personal experience with Ducky? I've read both praise and hate online, so can't really make heads or tails of the quality.

Hello everyone, I've managed to burn up three keyboards in the last week or so. All of them were kinda old, so its not that surprising, but still kinda annoying. Two of them died gracefully, specific keys just stopped working. I could fix them, but I don't feel like those boards are worth the effort. They aren't swappable keys, so I'd have to solder new keys on.

I want a new mechanical keyboard that has a physical volume knob, and I also really like backlit keys that shine through the letters. Can anyone provide any recommendations? I'm not opposed to building one, but I have not done that yet.

I've built a Lily58 pro with helios controllers and have been tinkering with it for the last month.

I have been trying to implement the QMK Caps Word feature but have been having problems getting it to work using the "Invert on shift" function. When double pressing Shift to activate Caps Word, time out doesn't work and Shift+'kc' does not produce lowercase letters as expected.

Caps Word functions as expected with #define CAPS_WORD_INVERT_ON_SHIFT commented out.

Is Invert on shift broken? Or am I missing something?

TL;DR: This is a ramble about my old and new keyboards, with some finger pain along the way.

• Hotswap has it's drawbacks
• QMK is nice
• I like macro keys

Due to my job and love for gaming, I spend quite a bit of time in front of a keyboard. With that in mind (and also some enabling colleagues) I went on a big long search for the perfect keyboard. Quickly I became interested in split designs and finally pulled the trigger on a Mistel Barocco MD770. It's now 1.5 years later, and this text was not typed on the Mistel.

The old

The Mistel Barocco MD770 is a super nice keyboard. I like the clean look, the split form factor and the fact that I can 'merge' it into a 'normal' keyboard. This saves me from messing with the whole keymap when gaming. What I had to fiddle with however, was the keybinds while not gaming. There is no GUI for that and you have to do it by combinations of key presses. It worked, but I had to check the manual every time I wanted to change something. Also the bluetooth connection often took some time (no issues when wired) to get going. So it had it's minor drawbacks, but not enough for me to go out searching again. After over a year with the board however, an issue pressing enough came up.

The issue

Being a gamer all my life, I never really had issues with hand or finger pain. But getting older and/or really diving into FPS about half a year ago messed with that. After longer gaming sessions I started to notice pain in the fingers of my left hand. Since I also do climbing, it took quite some time for me to figure out, that in fact the gaming is the issue. It seems I press WASD like a mad man when running around. Press less hard then - duhhh! I tried, but the MX Brown switches just didn't give the feedback my fingers needed.

I like climbing, I like gaming and I wanted this fixed quickly. My best idea, apart from tying to press less hard, was to find switches with a clearer feedback. This is when I discovered, that the Mistel sadly does NOT have a hotswap PCB. Which leads us to chapter three.

The new

With virtually endless options for keyboards and some money to throw at the problem, I was not quite ready to desolder my whole keyboard. So I went out there with my requirements figured out:

• split layout that can mesh together (for the reason above)
• hotswap (because that's what made me end up here)
• staggered is fine
• QMK support
• (macro keys)

The rest was mostly a gut decision - I found the Keychron Q11, liked the mostly clean look and the macro keys and just went with it.

With it I ordered some Cherry MX ERGO CLEAR, some cheapish keycaps that at least support this split layout and some O-rings. Most important answer first: Yes it helped with the finger pain! The actuation point is way more recognizable and the O-rings make the bottom out a lot less hard. I love the switches and also the sound is quite nice. The dedicated macro keys including a GUI to set them all up are also a major improvement in my books. I use them for media management and some undo-redo action which is super convenient. The keyboard itself is also quite beefy with its aluminuim body - not a super big deal but it feels nice. Last thing I want to talk about are the hotswap sockets: You just push in your switches and are ready to go - sounds super easy. And it is. Unless you don't have any feeling in your fingers (duhhh again) and just smash them in. I broke some sockets. Nothing that could not be fixed with some solder, but I was not even aware that this is an option. My fault but still something to watch out for at least.