I think you have to mark yourself for PVP to actually be able to attack or be attacked. At least that is what I understood when the tutorial messages popped up while uncovering the map there. Never got attacked while riding through there.
this post was submitted on 13 Jun 2023
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That’s what I thought too, except I definitely didn’t mark myself and a lvl 60 attacked and obliterated me the second I stepped out of the town next to the PVP area