Reven

joined 2 years ago
[–] Reven@lemmy.world 2 points 1 month ago

Thanks for your reply. I managed to sell some of the things already but I agree that it might be a pain to have the group full of selling messages, so for now I’m ok. I did get some good feedback.

[–] Reven@lemmy.world 2 points 2 months ago (2 children)

Thanks for all the replies! I'll try ebay probably. I kinda agree that posting buy/sell posts here might dilute the sparse content we have.

 

Sorry if this goes against the community rules, I haven't included links or descriptions to anything just in case.

I have a few smart switches that I "tasmotified" and an air purifier that I re-flashed for ESPHome. I'm moving overseas and I feel like selling them on craigslist or facebook would be a pain if they end up in the hands of someone that's not into home automation.

I don't know if it would be ok to post them here or if someone knows of a more dedicated community where they would be a good fit. Would appreciate the help.

[–] Reven@lemmy.world 7 points 4 months ago (1 children)

This is my scheme as well! Pretty much to the t. Except my HTPC is hypnotoad and nibbler is my NAS.

[–] Reven@lemmy.world 2 points 4 months ago

Thanks! I've used Darktable, but never saw it had a negatives module!

[–] Reven@lemmy.world 2 points 4 months ago (3 children)

Yeah, thanks. I imagined as much.

Do you know if there is Photoshop plugin/action or some other stand-alone app? I've searched a bit, but most people recommend Negative Lab Pro. I don't have Lightroom, and anyway Negative Lab Pro is out of my budget.

[–] Reven@lemmy.world 3 points 4 months ago* (last edited 4 months ago) (1 children)

I think it was Discovery. It was a replica. I found this (in Spanish): https://legadoexposevilla.org/el-transbordador-discovery-aterriza-en-sevilla/

 

I've got a bunch of old (1992) photos shot on 110 film with a point and shoot. I scanned the negatives with a cheap film scanner (from LIDL) a long time ago, and to be fair most of the 35mm film I had came out ok. But there are a couple of 110 rolls that I don't even know what to do with. The exposure is pretty bad and I think the film was exposed to light or not developed properly. I've played around with the photos trying to first get white balance right and then pushing the curves, but I can't get them right.

Any advice? I don't have the negatives with me, otherwise I'd try scanning them again just in case. Is there any workflow or app that I can use to try to recover them?

[–] Reven@lemmy.world 2 points 5 months ago (4 children)

Yup, this is the last time I muck around with spamassassin unless the project gets a magical revival.

[–] Reven@lemmy.world 4 points 5 months ago

I think I got it working. I've got this in /etc/default/spamd:

OPTIONS="-x -q -u spamd --max-children 5 -H /etc/mail/spamassassin/"

and this in /etc/default/spamass-milter:

OPTIONS="-e example.com -u spamass-milter -i 127.0.0.1"

And it definitely reads user prefs from the database because I can change the 'required_hits' to 6.7 for a given user and I see this in the logs:

spamd[523771]: spamd: clean message (-0.2/6.7) for user@example.com:133 in 1.2 seconds, 24427 bytes.

I don't know how many different combinations of config flags I've tried, but these seem to do the job.

 

Hi,

I'm trying and failing to get spamassassin to load user prefs from a mysql database. I'm using spamass-milter and I can't find any way in the docs to send anything. spamass fails to parse the recipient as the user and just uses it's running user in it's call to spamd. The database is properly configured and I can connect and set settings from roundcube. The sql config is added to local.cf.

I know that you can use spamd as a pipe, and then you can pass more variables, but I can't figure out the correct config for this setup.

This is what I have in /etc/default/spamd: OPTIONS="-Q -x --max-children 5 -D sql,bayes -H /etc/mail/spamassassin/" I've also tried multiple combinations with the flags -q, without -x...

And this is what I have in /etc/default/spamass-milter OPTIONS="-u spamass-milter -x -i 127.0.0.1" Where again I've tried without -u, with -e domain.com to explicitly set the domain.

If anyone has any advice or can point me to a recent tutorial for Ubuntu 24.04, I would be really grateful!

[–] Reven@lemmy.world 4 points 7 months ago

“Japanese” duplex

No, lol! I wish I had known of this or would've been clever enough to come up with something similar. I basically just yolo'd it the best I could. It was a torture.

work of art

[–] Reven@lemmy.world 2 points 7 months ago* (last edited 7 months ago)

I've put everything up on github: V6 conversion. Have fun. If you are going to get into this adventure, this might come in handy (it helped me): How to Build a Custom Keyboard From Scratch

[–] Reven@lemmy.world 2 points 7 months ago (1 children)

That's a nice board!

 

I was initially excited about my Keychron V6 keyboard, I was looking forward to a thockier keyboard and wanted the customizability with qmk. The V6 seemed like a good match. But after unboxing it, I realized that the south-facing LEDs weren't ideal. I had just purchased Razer PBT keycaps, which I loved, but they didn't work at all with the LEDs and the escaping light underneath just blinded me.

I tried to make the setup work with custom keycaps from fkcaps (https://fkcaps.com/custom/5ELZPQ). While they were cool, they weren't the same as double-shot PBT keys. The setup wasn't ideal but I just stuck with it.

When I saw a YouTube video about building a keyboard with KiCad, I was inspired to try it myself. I used an ATmega32U, because I thought it would be easier to integrate, but it did have it's challenges: limited I/O meant I had to sacrifice the layout switch, and my matrix is best described as "tortuous". Despite a few errors on my PCB (a group of LEDs were not connected and I completely missed the holes for a stabilizer), the final PCB works amazingly well.

I've added a few photos below showcasing my setup before PCB assembly. You can see the light issues under the keys and how the laser etching from fkcaps isn't very durable.

EDIT: I've published the files to github in case anyone wants to have a look: V6 conversion

before the pcb swap

fkcaps key detail

after transplant

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