[-] elDalvini@discuss.tchncs.de 5 points 1 week ago

You can use a boost converter to boost the 5V of an USB port to the 19V your notebook needs.

Assuming 5A output from a powerbank (which is probably about the max you will get without USB PD), you could theoretically get 0.55A at 19V. With the unavoidable inefficiencies, you will get less.

So, maybe enough to very slowly charge your notebook while it's off. But when it's turned on, the battery charge will still drop.

[-] elDalvini@discuss.tchncs.de 16 points 1 week ago

Sure, the skull is biodegradable. But didn't you know that large-scale human farming is responsible for the vast majority of CO2 emissions?!

[-] elDalvini@discuss.tchncs.de 2 points 1 week ago

Thanks for breaking it down for me! I think I'll stick with the B650 motherboard for now.

[-] elDalvini@discuss.tchncs.de 2 points 2 weeks ago

Right, I guess I assumed CPU naming makes sense, so surely the lower number CPU must be worse in every way, right?😜

Looks like going with the 7700X is a no-brainer for me then.

As for your upgrade recommendations: Can you explain the benefits of a higher-end mainboard? I would think the mainboard shouldn't make a huge difference, as long as it's from a reputable manufacturer and compatible with all the other parts.

Thanks for your help!

[-] elDalvini@discuss.tchncs.de 2 points 2 weeks ago

Right, I might just see what cooler I can get second-hand. Thanks for your input!

12
Double-check my first PC build (de.pcpartpicker.com)

My 5 year old notebook is starting to show it's age, so I want to finally build a "real" PC. I rarely play games, so this is probably overkill - But I don't want my PC to be what's stopping me. I also expect it to last a while.

I chose all AMD because I'm running linux, and AMD seems to still be the best choice for that.

I found a couple similar posts on which I based this list, so most of the parts are probably fine. I'm unsure about the cooler: How much headroom should I leave? This one is rated just 10W higher than the CPU TDP, so it might be cutting it too close.

PCPartPicker Part List

Type Item Price
CPU AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D 4.2 GHz 8-Core Processor €385.00
CPU Cooler be quiet! Pure Rock Slim 2 CPU Cooler €23.94
Motherboard MSI B650 GAMING PLUS WIFI ATX AM5 Motherboard €160.24
Memory G.Skill Flare X5 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory €99.89
Storage Crucial P2 500 GB M.2-2280 PCIe 3.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive Purchased For €0.00
Video Card ASRock Challenger OC Radeon RX 7600 8 GB Video Card €255.00
Case MSI MAG FORGE 110R ATX Mid Tower Case €54.85
Power Supply Gigabyte UD750GM 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply €75.43
Case Fan be quiet! Pure Wings 3 49.9 CFM 120 mm Fan €9.32
Case Fan be quiet! Pure Wings 3 49.9 CFM 120 mm Fan €9.32
Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts
Total €1072.99
Generated by PCPartPicker 2024-09-04 20:37 CEST+0200
[-] elDalvini@discuss.tchncs.de 2 points 3 weeks ago

This seems to be a bug in the slicer. I'm seeing the same issue in OrcaSlicer if the skirt height is set to more than one layer (even if the skirt is disabled). This makes sense if a skirt is used (can't print a continuous spiral if you have to switch between printing the object and the skirt), but not if it's disabled.

What slicer are you using? If it's a PrusaSlicer fork, this is likely the same bug.

[-] elDalvini@discuss.tchncs.de 3 points 1 month ago

From a cursory read of the datasheet, using the "dead time control" pin seems to be the way to go. Basically, this pin is used to set the voltage, while the error amplifier inputs (that's the closest function to "over current protection" this chip has) are used to adjust the output according to the load. For your application, you probably don't need to use them at all.

My instinct would be to disable the error amplifiers by connecting pins 1,2,15 and 16 to GND. You can then connect the wiper pin of the potentiometer to the deadtime control input, with the other pins of the potentiometer connected to GND and 3.3 V.

I haven't worked with this chip before, so take this with a grain of salt. You should probably use a simulation tool to check the circuit before you start destroying chips.

[-] elDalvini@discuss.tchncs.de 24 points 2 months ago

Do you expect every meme to be meticulously handcrafted? It's a stupid joke, not a work of art.

[-] elDalvini@discuss.tchncs.de 3 points 2 months ago

Close, but the word ends in -le, not -ie. The -le suffix is used as a diminutive form in some German dialects.

[-] elDalvini@discuss.tchncs.de 6 points 2 months ago* (last edited 2 months ago)

A small pair of vernier calipers. I don't use them a lot, but sometimes they come in very handy.

[-] elDalvini@discuss.tchncs.de 1 points 4 months ago

Klar hinterlässt das Spuren, aber nichts was man mit etwas Seife oder Spüli nicht wieder weg kriegt. Der Dreck ist ja in dem Moment schon gelöst (sonst wäre er noch am Fahrrad). Nur Festtrocknen würde ich es nicht lassen.

Ich wäre nur vorsichtig dabei, mit höherem Druck direkt an die Lager ran zu gehen. Danach hast du sonst auch Wasser in den Lagern und musst doch alles auseinander bauen und neu fetten.

[-] elDalvini@discuss.tchncs.de 16 points 4 months ago

My router is called Jupiter, everything connected to it is named after a moon. Callisto, Ganymede, Thelxinoe, Kallichore are what I'm currently using.

79
submitted 7 months ago* (last edited 7 months ago) by elDalvini@discuss.tchncs.de to c/3dprinting@lemmy.world

I built my 3D printer a couple of months ago, but I can't get it to print sharp corners. The corners in the picture should be 90°, without any fillets:

During this test print, I played with multiple parameters: speed, temperature, acceleration, junction deviation, linear advance. All of these were also individually tuned previously. Nothing seems to make a difference.

Could this be a issue with the construction of my printer? I'm beginning to think my hotend isn't rigid enough, but then I would at least expect better results at low speeds.

Edit: the printer is a CoreXY of my own design running Marlin 2.1.2.1. The Slicer is PrusaSlicer with most settings left as default (but increased speeds)

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elDalvini

joined 1 year ago