poofy_cat

joined 1 year ago
[–] poofy_cat@lemm.ee 2 points 6 months ago

Enclosure is mostly to keep cat hair off my printer (my cat sheds like crazy) and to filter some of the microplastic dust and fumes. It does reduce warping by keeping the volume warmer than room temperature, I print a lot of PETG so this helps.

 

My SUNLU S1 Plus filament dryer was slipping around getting yanked forward on my TUKKARI TLX MK4 enclosure, so I designed this mount which fits into the existing slots on top of the enclosure. Prints in two pieces that screw together since otherwise the supports would be complicated. Had to print the larger piece on my big bed printer (artillery sw x2). I'm using up the last of my prusament galaxy black pla.

https://www.printables.com/model/871193-tukkari-tlx-prusa-mk3mk4-enclosure-sunlu-s1-plus-f

[–] poofy_cat@lemm.ee 2 points 1 year ago (1 children)

Dang, I need to try that. Good idea.

 

I made the "voronoi halloween pumpkin" off printables, thought it turned out nice:

https://www.printables.com/model/606949-voronoi-halloween-pumpkin-tealight-cover

Scaled the Z up to 115% since I thought the proportions looked better. Prusament galaxy black pla on my MK4 with organic supports on the top area.

 
[–] poofy_cat@lemm.ee 1 points 1 year ago

It might just be the specific spool/brand of PETG you used. Try buying some from a major well-known manufacturer, like Overture, Polymaker, etc. I've had cheaper brands shrink, warp, have adhesion issues, and all sorts of other quirks.

[–] poofy_cat@lemm.ee 2 points 1 year ago (1 children)

Make sure it's from one of Sunlu's official stores... aliexpressis pretty shady lol.

[–] poofy_cat@lemm.ee 2 points 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago)

Nope, this is the same size as the stock Prusa sheets. The sheets are all a little bigger than the actual build area.

[–] poofy_cat@lemm.ee 3 points 1 year ago (2 children)

This is just a regular-sized Prusa MK4, 250 x 210mm xy build area. I made this custom magnetic G10 sheet for printing PETG, it's 253.8 x 241mm.

[–] poofy_cat@lemm.ee 1 points 1 year ago

You could also mess with your retraction settings to try and reduce stringing.

[–] poofy_cat@lemm.ee 1 points 1 year ago (3 children)

I had one weird roll of PETG that could only be printed at lower temperatures, so it's possible. Still looks like the filament is wet to me... I recommend picking up a Sunlu S1 Plus when it drops under $40, I like being able to both dry the spool and print straight from the dryer (only takes a couple hours to re-absorb moisture).

[–] poofy_cat@lemm.ee 4 points 1 year ago

Ended up moving the little 500VA UPS from my computer to the 3D printer. Hopefully it'll help for brief blips.

[–] poofy_cat@lemm.ee 5 points 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago)

This model was set up for it already in the .3mf file. It stops, moves the toolhead over, automatically unloads the filament, and waits for me to yank it the rest of the way out then stick in another color. It then purges the nozzle a bit to get the main color fully flowing and asks you if it's correct before proceeding. I did this like 7 times for this stupid half-failed box lol.

Edit: Also, you can left-click the plus sign on the layer slider at any height you want after slicing in PrusaSlicer to add manual color changes in.

 

And the power panic resume didn't work :(. This was also my first try at manually changing filaments for multiple colors, waste of effort and filament lol.

[–] poofy_cat@lemm.ee 1 points 1 year ago

This could be it, OP should check what the actual temperature says on the screen during printing.

[–] poofy_cat@lemm.ee 1 points 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago) (6 children)

Aside from drying, here are some thoughts:

Double-check the print temperature, PETG should be about 240-ish. Also the spiral vase mode may be the issue if your model isn't designed for it. Also check your z offset, the first layer should be almost a flawless sheet... if not, stop the print and try again while live adjusting the z until it's correct. Typically PETG doesn't like to be squished down as much as PLA.

 

I keep adding more tool holders to this as I find the need. Still have one blank area to fill, but it's mostly there.

 

After a few hickups I finished building my MK4 kit and Tukkari enclosure. The first few prints have been fantastic.

My MK4 kit had a couple bad bearings, so I replaced all the bearings and rods on the X and Y axes with MISUMI equivalents. I noticed that they have a fair bit less slop in the movement and are overall quieter.

I also made a custom G10+steel print sheet, and it's working exceptionally well with PETG. It sticks strongly while hot, and doesn't release until the bed drops below about 40 deg C at which point parts pop off easily. It leaves a super gloss surface on the first layer as well. If anyone is interested in building one, here are the parts I used:

(253.8x241mm steel sheet) https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2251832760691866.html

(white 250x240x1mm g10 sheet) https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2255801004367032.html

I bonded them together with 3M 200MP double-stick tape (which is thin, strong, and heat-resistant) and filed notches in the g10 to match the sheet. I didn't abrade the G10, PETG sticks perfectly while glossy. I was very careful about cleaning it with iso. alcohol before printing, and I wipe it again every print or two.

The filament dryer is a Sunlu S1 Plus, which has a built-in fan to circulate air for better drying. I printed this guide and used a PC4-M10 fitting and 4mm OD teflon tube with it to reduce friction into the enclosure:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5234489

I'm quite happy with the setup. It is a little noisier in the enclosure than just on the table due to the melamine particle board panel vibrating while suspended on its plastic feet. I'll set it on foam and/or a paver eventually to improve this.

 

Still have a lot more tool holders to print.

 

cross-posted from: https://lemm.ee/post/676343

Just finished assembling this nice Tukkari TLX enclosure for my Prusa MK4 kit... which still hasn't shipped yet lol. It's really well designed and went together pretty easily, though assembly took a while. Should keep the cat hair off my MK4... someday...

 

Just finished assembling this nice Tukkari TLX enclosure for my Prusa MK4 kit... which still hasn't shipped yet lol. It's really well designed and went together pretty easily, though assembly took a while. Should keep the cat hair off my MK4... someday...

 

cross-posted from: https://lemm.ee/post/600079

I've been repairing a Creality CR-10S Pro V2 and can't figure out this persistent oddity. It prints spiral vases and benchies flawlessly, but regular 3D prints often have these pronounced bumps and thick whiskers sticking out. I think it's more than just Z seam blobs, I'm wondering if it's an issue with the wipe settings not working well in PrusaSlicer...

Here's another example of the issue: https://i.imgur.com/ZHssQWI.jpg

I'm using Kaaber transparent PETG, printing at 215/210 nozzle and 75 bed. I know this seems cool for PETG, but this brand tends to melt and ooze at anything hotter.

Here are my PrusaSlicer retraction settings, they are the default for this printer:

https://i.imgur.com/RqrltUL.jpg

I tried slightly bumping the retraction to 6.5mm and 65mm/s, but it made no difference.

Any ideas what would cause this? I'm getting it while trying to print many parts of the honeycomb storage wall off printables.

 

I've been repairing a Creality CR-10S Pro V2 and can't figure out this persistent oddity. It prints spiral vases and benchies flawlessly, but regular 3D prints often have these pronounced bumps and thick whiskers sticking out. I think it's more than just Z seam blobs, I'm wondering if it's an issue with the wipe settings not working well in PrusaSlicer...

Here's another example of the issue: https://i.imgur.com/ZHssQWI.jpg

I'm using Kaaber transparent PETG, printing at 215/210 nozzle and 75 bed. I know this seems cool for PETG, but this brand tends to melt and ooze at anything hotter.

Here are my PrusaSlicer retraction settings, they are the default for this printer:

https://i.imgur.com/RqrltUL.jpg

I tried slightly bumping the retraction to 6.5mm and 65mm/s, but it made no difference.

Any ideas what would cause this? I'm getting it while trying to print many parts of the honeycomb storage wall off printables.

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