3DPrinting
3DPrinting is a place where makers of all skill levels and walks of life can learn about and discuss 3D printing and development of 3D printed parts and devices.
The r/functionalprint community is now located at: !functionalprint@kbin.social or !functionalprint@fedia.io
There are CAD communities available at: !cad@lemmy.world or !freecad@lemmy.ml
Rules
-
No bigotry - including racism, sexism, ableism, homophobia, transphobia, or xenophobia. Code of Conduct.
-
Be respectful, especially when disagreeing. Everyone should feel welcome here.
-
No porn (NSFW prints are acceptable but must be marked NSFW)
-
No Ads / Spamming / Guerrilla Marketing
-
Do not create links to reddit
-
If you see an issue please flag it
-
No guns
-
No injury gore posts
If you need an easy way to host pictures, https://catbox.moe/ may be an option. Be ethical about what you post and donate if you are able or use this a lot. It is just an individual hosting content, not a company. The image embedding syntax for Lemmy is 
Moderation policy: Light, mostly invisible
view the rest of the comments
Are you sure the problem is bed leveling? Oftentimes, the edges (and especially corners) coming up on large prints is warping due to thermal problems like incorrect bed temp or cool breezes.
Yes I am absolutely sure. I can see it while leveling the bed (using a feeler gauge). If I have the correct distance between nozzle and bed on the edges the nozzle scratches in the middle. And if perfect in the middle the edges are to far away. When I start a test print I can even see the filament not being squished enough to the bed on the sides while perfect in the middle. Warping only occurs to me when printing PETG and even then only slightly and on longer prints.
Have you considered shimming your bed? Keep in mind that also X/Y rods (frame in your case) might be a reason for that. Flipping (rotating) rods might get you closer to a solution. Inspect each axis and plate individually (with light behind the ruller for example). Not the answer that you were looking for, but Id always try to fix the hardware first. BL touch is doing nothing, but only correcting hardware issues. Not needed if you fix them 😜 It will be easier with ABL on better tuned printer. Also you might find that you dont need one (hopefully)
That is a really good tip, but I already disassembled the build plate and checked if it’s flat and compared with when it’s built in. Turns out it’s not perfectly flat… I too am a fan of fixing the hardware first, but in this case it might be cheaper (and easier) to install a BLTouch (or a mesh leveling probe in general). Also I won’t have this issue again in the future with a BLTouch, as I can correct a potential future bending of the plate without much work.