this post was submitted on 02 Sep 2023
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sandblaster? (lemmy.world)
submitted 1 year ago by rustyriffs@lemmy.world to c/3dprinting@lemmy.world
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I'm curious if anyone uses sandblasting for cleaning up their prints. If not, what's your favorite way to clean them up?

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[–] IMALlama@lemmy.world 5 points 1 year ago (2 children)

Straight from the printer as often as possible.

I'm not above taking knives, chisels, drills, and saws to prints as necessary, but this is usually reserved for functional/not often seen prints.

If I am looking to improve surface finish there really isn't a substitute for sanding. I deal with the fuzzies with my hot air solder station. Just wave some hot air over the sanded surface and you'll get quite a bit of shine back.

Now that I've (nearly) finished building a Voron I am somewhat tempted to give vapor smoothing a try.

[–] bizzle@midwest.social 4 points 1 year ago (2 children)

Hot air station is a great idea damn. Do you ever have to deal with going too far? I'd be scared 😲

[–] Doombot1@lemmy.one 4 points 1 year ago

Practice on a failed print to get the hang of things first!

[–] IMALlama@lemmy.world 2 points 1 year ago

I haven't run into any issues, but I tend to print 3-4 walls so maybe that helps. My hot air station has adjustable temperature control and I keep the temps down - usually around printing temperature. I also don't stay in any one spot too long. You can see the surface finish change sheen as you move on and off a spot and its temperature changes.

I can't take credit for the idea. I either read it in a printing community or it was a natural outgrowth of people saying, "use a lighter" and me not owning a lighter.

[–] GarrettBird@lemmy.world 4 points 1 year ago (1 children)

What do you think of an acetone vapor bath?

[–] IMALlama@lemmy.world 2 points 1 year ago

I've never done it, but I also wasn't printing with a material that even supported it until I started building my Voron. Now that I'm nearly done I am wrestling some with going back to PETG (somewhat more likely to be recycled if you put it in your recycling), PLA (could maybe be composted if it doesn't get sorted out/will eventually break down in. A landfill), or ABS/ASA (no hopes or dreams here, but man my Voron does seem to print it well).

I have 6 kg of ASA for some functional prints. I'm sure I'll vapor smooth some of it. Printing hassles of ABS/ASA aside, vapor smoothing seems like it offers amazing surface finishes. I really don't know why you don't see more of it? If you don't need dimensional accuracy it should be a big time saver.

[–] MxRemy@lemmy.one 5 points 1 year ago (1 children)

At my work we occasionally use a vibratory tumbler for that

[–] FuglyDuck@lemmy.world 6 points 1 year ago (1 children)

Sanding with loosenmedia :)

I suspect airblasting is going to be too aggressive for plastic (or perhaps more accurately too uneven,). But a vibe tank is usually just right.

Another that can can be made with printed parts and a motor is a rock tumbler. Slower, sure, but it has the advantage of easy printing.

Personally, I usually just sand things with a sponge block or scraps of sand paper.

[–] IMALlama@lemmy.world 2 points 1 year ago (2 children)

Have you made a printed rock tumbler? I am somewhat considering making one for my kids, but don't know how long the container would last.

[–] FuglyDuck@lemmy.world 3 points 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago) (1 children)

I’ve… not. I just remember playing with one as a kid. It was literally just a motor with a gear train to make it go slowish and a plastic jar.

Edit: wow. Rock tumblers have gotten expensive…this is now gonna have to be a back-burner project, me thinks.

[–] exploding_whale@lemmy.ml 2 points 1 year ago (1 children)

Have they? I feel like I see more low cost options than years ago.

[–] FuglyDuck@lemmy.world 2 points 1 year ago (1 children)

The ones I’m seeing are like 60-500, no way my parents would have dropped that for a toy. (Specifically one that lasted of 2 weeks,)

[–] exploding_whale@lemmy.ml 2 points 1 year ago (1 children)

Aside from that one tiny cheap toy in the sears catalog backnin the day, my recollection was starting price was around $250 for any tumbler(dad was considering them for years is the only reason I have any recollection). The $52 Harbor freight option is an impressive deal especially considering a few decades of inflation. I'm not say they were ever affordable toys, just that they are more affordable than they used to be. Size is a pretty big limitation on most readily available ones below the $500 mark.

[–] FuglyDuck@lemmy.world 1 points 1 year ago (1 children)

Yeah… it probably was thebsears toy.

That said the only part that would likely wear is the drum, which, if you can print one, you can print more, heh.

[–] exploding_whale@lemmy.ml 1 points 1 year ago (1 children)

I think print one and apply a castable coating like urethane or maybe plastigip to the inside could be pretty long lasting.

[–] FuglyDuck@lemmy.world 1 points 1 year ago (1 children)

It's a cost vs reward thing... so take this with a grain of skepticism, but, if durability was the sole consideration, nylon filament might give the most. nylon is very slippery so it's unlikely to abrade as fast. (this is why it's used in plastic gears.)

[–] exploding_whale@lemmy.ml 1 points 1 year ago (1 children)

I think nylon does well with sliding friction, but have some concerns about whether it would hold up well to the kind of sharp edges you tend to have with abrasive media. That's from some observation on both commercial rock tumblers, industrial ball mills, and abrasive blasting equipment. I won't say I know enough from experience to say it will work for sure though.

[–] FuglyDuck@lemmy.world 1 points 1 year ago (1 children)

won’t say I know enough from experience to say it will work for sure though. there's "working" and then there's optimal. lol. pretty sure you could drop some media in a martini mixer and hand it over to sugar-crazed kiddies and have it "work". I accept no responsibility for that inevitable disaster,

that said, I suspect that depends on the kind of media used. sandy grit in a water solution or something would probably be fine.

[–] exploding_whale@lemmy.ml 1 points 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago) (1 children)

Now that you mentioned it, I have a toddler and a cocktail shaker already. I'll slap some ducktape on the lid and hope to contain some disaster.

[–] FuglyDuck@lemmy.world 1 points 1 year ago

I suspect this comes with the benefit of burning off some of the kid's energy and entertaining the kid for HOURS

[–] exploding_whale@lemmy.ml 3 points 1 year ago

Might be worth trying a plastidip or some sort of urethane or rubberized coating on the inside. And the a big rubberband tire on the rollers That would make it last longer and be repairable.

[–] faebudo@infosec.pub 4 points 1 year ago (1 children)

Prints can be scraped using microplane cards (can be made yourself from spring steel with a hammer). I really like this method as it leaves a smooth surface.

Explanation: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=a4e9JJkinvk

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[–] stealth_cookies@lemmy.ca 2 points 1 year ago

Yes, we have a small sandblaster at work for cleaning up SLS Nylon prints.

[–] imgonnatrythis@lemm.ee 1 points 1 year ago

A torch