I assumed display damage because every time I’ve seen these artifacts it’s been due to a damaged display matrix, but i agree that if it’s intermittent and isn’t some kind of unusual defect in the display, the ribbon coming partially loose sounds most likely, followed by cable damage (e.g., pinched by lid hinge).

Ribbons are usually pretty secure, especially from factory if tape hasn’t been removed before, but with enough heat (e.g. left in car outside) and jostling, the tape can loosen, and cable’s weight plus jostling can be enough for ribbon to pull itself out.

To quickly check without opening case i would try lifting the machine in two hands and driving it gently but firmly into your right palm (which would jostle the ribbon toward/into its terminal). If it’s loose, i would expect to see the display respond in some way after at most a few tries, if the ribbon cable is loose. If not, it’s still worth opening and re-seating ribbon to be sure, but jostling it a bit should immediately worsen or improve the visual artifacts, confirming the diagnosis.

No worries. In case this is your first display replacement, few quick tips…

1. Helps to skim video teardowns like this
2. Take photos of internals of electronics when you open them up so you can reference them later after reassembly.
3. Keep track of screws. Trick: unscrew but leave them loose in the holes of the case tray with pieces of tape over each of them. Then you can remove tray without concern.
4. Bare display edges are especially fragile and often have coatings that scratch easy. Trick: leave protective film on, just put a few pieces of folded tape on edges so you can pull off after install.
5. Your display connects to the mainboard with two connectors wrapped in gaphers tape the right side:
6. Display ribbon terminal (tall one far left) is more fragile than camera/lid sensors (wide one far right). Trick: use guitar pick or credit card to lift clamp right to left, never knife
7. Ribbon itself often has physical tabs or printed white/color blocks indicating seat depth. This makes it far easier to verify its secure before closing case.

Good luck!

Oh, that sounds like a recent laptop, and ASUS laptops have high interoperability. I’m sure there are at least 3rd-party generics available.

Edit: like this for example https://ebay.com/itm/364157672993

But in seriousness, as a rule it’s not possible to unfuck a display matrix, only replace. The easiest temp solution is an external. The easiest long term solution, if the manufacturer is no longer selling the part, is saving alerts for parts-only listings of that laptop on sites like eBay.

Online? Looks like there are plenty of lines on there already.

It wasn’t just lack of demand. It was that versus the actual cost of increased failure rates due to introducing multiple additional points of failure to every battery.

PowerCharge had significantly higher rates of self-discharge and potassium hydroxide seepage. They were more vulnerable to corrosion in suboptimal storage conditions, perhaps due to putting conductive film beneath the insulator wrapping.

In other words the proposed value-add of that product line (convenience) was also directly impacting their core brand (maximal reliability).

Don’t fuck with me! ~(omg~ ~please,~ ~please~ ~fuck~ ~with~ ~me)~ What the fuck? Stop touching my ass! ^hey^ ^why^ ^did^ ^you^ ^stop?^ ^haha^ ^we’re^ ^good^ I will scratch the shit out of you! ~(oh~ ~fuck~ ~I~ ~actually~ ~scratched)~

Goodbye

More abstract means simpler, but it’s easy to get lost if you weren’t ready to have concrete examples taken away, so examples are offered for each translation below.

(Note for the mathy: the above is supposed to be layman’s terms but if there’s a major inaccuracy please correct me.)

E

Thanks, OP